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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.